The Engineer explained to me that the height of the Rain Barrel above the ground, which is where the water outlet is – the soaker hose, can make all the difference in the water’s drainage rate. Soaker hoses require pressure to operate well and at the height at which my rain barrel sat, that water wasn’t going to go anywhere.
Those of you who read my second entry (Set up a Rain Barrel in three easy steps, Oct 8, 2009) will recall that I began with the Rain Barrel sitting on three stone pavers at approximately nine inches above the ground. When I finished the project, I left the barrel sitting on one paver, about three inches above the ground – an obvious difference that I consciously changed not knowing it would have such an effect (see the fourth entry, Waterclogged, Oct 9, 2009). Knowing that Soaker Hoses can be temperamental, and that they require pressure to push the water through, I intend to build a tall riser made of wood for this barrel.
An alternative would be to allow all the rain from this (north) side of the roof to travel through the downspout, across a constructed runnel, to the Rain Garden in the front yard, and completely eliminate the use of a Rain Barrel.
I spoke with a Landscape Architect friend who has his own hands on experience turning his traditional home landscape into a complete, sustainable water system utilizing Rain Barrels, Rain Gardens, Runnels, Bioswales, a Green Roof, Pervious Pavers, and a miniature urban Prairie. (Yes, I intend to emulate him). He suggested a runnel for my drainage system on this side of the house, which would allow me to eliminate the Rain Barrel and make the Runnel and Rain Garden my sole system there.
This would only be influenced by the ability of the front yard to hold a Rain Garden. It’s a small space with two trees that could be damaged by standing water. Watch for a development in the Rain Garden design as I tackle this decision.
